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Post by cath907 on Apr 12, 2010 16:15:30 GMT
I've just got a new boat (1972 vintage!) and there is teak on it (grab handles, forepeak hatch etc etc) which a previous owner painted with some sort of varnish or stain that has peeled and flaked off and looked terrible. I've stripped it all off carefully and am not sure what to do next!
do I varnish or use teak oil?
or just leave it?
do I use a teak detergent first?
the corners pieces (small triangle shaped pieces of wood) of the hatch appear to be soft, do they need dug out and replaced, or filled or coated?
Am aiming for a weather tight protective finish without making a mess!
any advice welcome!
catherine
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Post by allan on Apr 12, 2010 18:46:34 GMT
One of the best cleaners for wood and GRP is oxalic acid. If you would like to try a small area I have some on my boat. As far as the finish is concerned, I tried Danish oil last year but I'm not happy with the results as it is more varnish than oil. I have some Tung oil to try this year. If you want some to try just see me at the club.
Allan
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Camelot
Member of CYC 
Camelot
Camelot alongside the harbour wall at Bangor, North Wales.
Posts: 851
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Post by Camelot on Apr 12, 2010 23:02:49 GMT
I have the same issue with my new (1984 vintage) boat. I'd second Allan's suggestion of oxalic acid. I've used it before for GRP cleaning - it removes the cardiff bay brown stain , which you'll have soon, in minutes! And the bit I've tested on the wood looks very promising.
As for what to protect it with, I hate varnish and know there is no way I will get round to redoing it before it starts peeling. So I'm going with teak oil. Hopefully I can get a comparison with Allan's Tung oil in 6 months or so and being a bit more informed decide on a more long term plan.
Cath we had to move your boat today as we removed (pending replacement) the section of pontoon you moored up to. It's only 30 ft from where you left it and is well secured and safe. She looks to be a very fine craft.
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Camelot
Member of CYC
Camelot
Camelot alongside the harbour wall at Bangor, North Wales.
Posts: 851
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Post by Camelot on Nov 2, 2010 2:17:54 GMT
So how did the Tung Oil do then Allan?
What did everyone else use? Was it any good?
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Post by allan on Nov 2, 2010 9:48:58 GMT
The Tung oil is fantastic. It has not changed in any way since I bought it. That is to say, it is still in the container! I may redo my woodwork over the winter.
Allan
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Camelot
Member of CYC
Camelot
Camelot alongside the harbour wall at Bangor, North Wales.
Posts: 851
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Post by Camelot on Nov 2, 2010 11:27:27 GMT
I neglected to mention it earlier, but my teak oil is still in the bottle too!
Has anyone actually got round to treating their woodwork?
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ishtar
Member of CYC
Ishtar
The original Ishtar
Posts: 970
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Post by ishtar on Nov 2, 2010 13:05:06 GMT
I've used Danish oil and teak oil - above decks. Seems to be ok for a few months and then dries out grey again.
Louise did the interior teak with danish oil and it stayed nice for months and months.
I guess it must be the sun/salt that is the problem outside.
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Post by allan on Nov 2, 2010 20:11:47 GMT
I used Danish oil on my external hand holds and have been very disappointed. It is much more like a varnish than I expected from the name.
Allan
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Viv
Member of CYC
Posts: 430
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Post by Viv on Nov 3, 2010 8:53:18 GMT
HI I have read your post on teak oil and danish.
Teak oil will soak into the grain and replenish the oils that have been lost and give a dark brown finish and look for about a week and then return to its natural colour of grey.
Danish oil will replenish the grain but has some type of hardener in it and seals the grain off and gives a hardened varnish type finish I hope this helps Vince.
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